Back to Face Lift Floors
Find answers at Wood Flooring

Q: One visitor asked, "I recently pulled wall to wall broadloom off my staircase, and want to refinish the hardwood. My main floors are oak strips. The stairs are a solid piece of wood, not strips, (I don't know what wood it is, but have been told it is not oak) and the risers are painted. I will keep them painted. There are various markings on the wood steps - about 4 inches on each side of the step is blackened, I don't know if it was once stained darker, it doesn't appear to be paint. I have used a chemical stripper, and I have been sanding with an electric hand sander, and by hand. The wood still does not look uniform. Also, there are small nail holes from the various carpeting that was installed. Do I choose a wood putty to match the colour stain I want to end up with? Also, can I use a minwax-type gel stain that I have used on furniture, or do I need a special floor stain? And if I use an oil-based stain, can I then use a water-based polyurethane?"

A: You can get wood putty in various colours, either in a jar or tube from most hardwood flooring retailers. I personally buy most of my supplies from Woodchuck Flooring on Nugget Ave. in Scarborough. They may have a colour in the dura seal line of wood putty in jars. Less than $10.00 per jar.
Could it be your treads are simply pine slabs?
I think you would be better off using an oil based stain, rather than the gel stain from min wax. Better penetration. You could use a min wax stain (oil based). I have also used Benjamin Moore stains, and they can be tinted just about any colour under the rainbow. I usually go to Cook's Paint and Wallpaper on Danforth Ave., just east of Main Street, when I need to match a colour exactly. These stains have a fairly strong odor, but are fairly easy to work with, dry fast, and have excellent coverage. You apply the stain, let it sit for a few minutes, no more than 5, and then wipe off the excess with a separate cloth. I have applied a water base finish over these stains after one day, but it may be wise to give it 2 days to be safe. The main thing is that you don't want to leave excessive stain on the surface of the wood. And it has to be totally dry before you apply the water base urethane. Otherwise, there should be no problem at all. I hope that helps.

Related questions about refinishing and staining wood floors:
>Gloss, Satin, or Semi-Gloss?
>How long will it take me to sand my floors?
>How long would it take you to refinish, stain, and polyurethane...?
>Should I sand my own floors?
>How do I buff spots a pole sander can't reach?
>Is it possible to refinish engineered floors?
>Can I sand with nails in place? Can I recoat with a low gloss oil-based urethane?
>Do I have to sand the whole floor, then stain, then polyurethane?
>I was wondering if waxing the floor would be a good option to varnishing?
>Can a soft wood be sanded like a hardwood?
>Is it possible to have too many coats of urethane?
>Cost to resand 1400 sq. ft.?
>What do people charge for sanding and finishing natural (3 coats- No Sealers)?
>How much will it cost to refinish my hardwood floors?
>There is a living room, dining room, staircase and upstairs hallway, together with 4 small bedrooms which we would like to have done. Is this going to cost thousands of dollars or can it be done quite reasonably?
>If I fill some gaps *******, and the wood expands some during the summer, will that squeeze some of it out?
>Should finish be applied over filled nail holes?
> Is there a filler for filling the gaps between the planks? Should I punch the nails through and rescrew the planks to the joists before sanding? Do I apply the filler before I sand? What sealer should I use?
Finish Problems (e.g. Air Bubbles)
>What causes air bubbles?
>Did not buffing between coats cause this?
>We had the flooring company come back a second time tofill in some gaps and buff and put another coat on. We now have veryvisible air bubbles in our urethane finish (they were not present the first time). What is the best way to remove the air bubbles?
>I have two rooms. One is 9x12 the other 11x20. They are already stained with a royal mahogony minwax stain. It has a high gloss finish and the finish is now scratched and starting to peel. What do you suggest we do, strip and sand right down? What would the cost be approximately? How long would it take?
>At a doorway my urethane finish has lots of debris in it. How do I fix this?
>A contractor just finished installing/finishing my hardwood floors and left multiple lap marks (covering the entire width of the floor). What should be done about them?
>When there are air bubbles in the polyurethane finish, can you spot sand some of them by hand and then touch up that spot with another coat of polyurethane?
>There are some worn areas on our floor that need refinishing. Is it possible to redo only the worn areas andhave them blend into the older finished areas without redoing the entire floor?
>After many professional sanding and recoats, why is our floor is still rough?
>What do I do now that my finish is peeling off because there is wax in the grain?
>What do we do about problems with swirl marks in the floor finish?
>Why did the polyurethane peel right off?
>There always seems to be a film on the floor and they show all the dirt. Can I remove the 'shiny' top coat and redo with something more 'matte'?
>We have sanded off all the old stain, used the 120 grit to give a smoother finish, used a polyurethane but it still looks dull. I was reading on sanding tips and it says that after we sand the stain off, put the new stain on, then add the polyurethane, to sand it again lightly with a 120 grit and then add another coat of polyurethane for a smoother finish. Is that correct?
>We have put on 2 coats of water based polyurethane on our floors. The floor feels rough. How do you get that hard smooth finish?
>We have done the second coat of polyurethane but the floor is still rough and not shiny! What do we do now?
>The polyurethane coat on our hardwood flooring is peeling and flaking. I was able to scrape off most of the coat in one room. Should I apply wax or polyurethane?
>I just applied stain and poly. Why are my floors sticky?

>Why is my stain not drying faster?
>We stained our floors. Why are some areas lighter than the rest?
>Can a dark stain be stripped and stained to match lighter floors?
>Is there anything that I can do now to repair that blotchy appearance on the pine plank floors I just stained and refinished?
>What colour hardwood works best for a small room?
>How do I get the stain on my banister to look even and not blotchy?
>I stained the floor and allowed it to dry then put the polyurethane on it, which made the floor white, and in some spots the stain came off. why?