Q: One visitor asked, "I have two rooms. One is 9x12 the other 11x20. They are already stained with a Royal Mahogony minwax stain. It has a high gloss finish and the finish is now scratched and starting to peel. Not all over, but in several spots. What do you suggest we do, strip and sand right down? Or is there another option? What would the cost be approximately? How long would it take?"
A: 2 Small rooms, previously stained Royal Mahogany, now with peeling finish! Hmmm. You don't tell me what type of floors you have. For example, 1 3/4 X 3/8 or 3/4 thick. Has it been sanded previously? This can be an issue especially if it the traditional 3/8 thick strip which has been sanded at least twice. How much wear surface is left on the boards? (The thickness of the floor from the top surface to the top edge of the groove). I have done a few Royal Mahogany jobs. Very dark, rich colour! But it might take considerable sanding to clean the floor off enough to re-stain or re-finish. If you planned to finish natural, you should know that it is practically impossible to remove every trace of the stain from the grain of the wood. My biggest question is your choice of the word "peeling" with reference to the finish. If it is indeed peeling then their is likely a failure of the first coat of finish. The fix is to start from scratch. If the first coat of finish to be applied was a quick dry lacquer type sealer then, yes, the finish can peel, since there is likely a poor bond between that and the polyurethane top coat. I never use sealers under oil modified polyurethanes. The idea is to apply successive coats of polyurethane, abrading each coat to aid adhesion. This would give a finish which, like any finish, could be scratched, certainly, but does not wear off the floor easily. I would have to probably see the job my self, but if you know the steps the previous company took to do this job, and compare that with my comments, you may have an idea what approach to take. If I may be of further assistance, please don't hesitate.
Related questions about refinishing and staining wood floors:
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>How do I buff spots a pole sander can't reach?
>Is it possible to refinish engineered floors?
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Finish Problems (e.g. Air Bubbles)
>What causes air bubbles?
>Did not buffing between coats cause this?
>We had the flooring company come back a second time tofill in some gaps and buff and put another coat on. We now have veryvisible air bubbles in our urethane finish (they were not present the first time). What is the best way to remove the air bubbles?
>At a doorway my urethane finish has lots of debris in it. How do I fix this?
>A contractor just finished installing/finishing my hardwood floors and left multiple lap marks (covering the entire width of the floor). What should be done about them?
>When there are air bubbles in the polyurethane finish, can you spot sand some of them by hand and then touch up that spot with another coat of polyurethane?
>There are some worn areas on our floor that need refinishing. Is it possible to redo only the worn areas andhave them blend into the older finished areas without redoing the entire floor?
>After many professional sanding and recoats, why is our floor is still rough?
>What do I do now that my finish is peeling off because there is wax in the grain?
>What do we do about problems with swirl marks in the floor finish?
>Why did the polyurethane peel right off?
>There always seems to be a film on the floor and they show all the dirt. Can I remove the 'shiny' top coat and redo with something more 'matte'?
>We have sanded off all the old stain, used the 120 grit to give a smoother finish, used a polyurethane but it still looks dull. I was reading on sanding tips and it says that after we sand the stain off, put the new stain on, then add the polyurethane, to sand it again lightly with a 120 grit and then add another coat of polyurethane for a smoother finish. Is that correct?
>We have put on 2 coats of water based polyurethane on our floors. The floor feels rough. How do you get that hard smooth finish?
>We have done the second coat of polyurethane but the floor is still rough and not shiny! What do we do now?
>The polyurethane coat on our hardwood flooring is peeling and flaking. I was able to scrape off most of the coat in one room. Should I apply wax or polyurethane?
>I just applied stain and poly. Why are my floors sticky?
>Why is my stain not drying faster?
>We stained our floors. Why are some areas lighter than the rest?
>Can a dark stain be stripped and stained to match lighter floors?
>Do I choose a wood putty to match the colour stain I use? Can I use a minwax-type gel stain that I have used on furniture, or do I need a special floor stain?
>Is there anything that I can do now to repair that blotchy appearance on the pine plank floors I just stained and refinished?
>What colour hardwood works best for a small room?
>How do I get the stain on my banister to look even and not blotchy?
>I stained the floor and allowed it to dry then put the polyurethane on it, which made the floor white, and in some spots the stain came off. why?